Toph Crochet Pattern: Detailed Amigurumi Doll Guide
Make a detailed Toph-inspired amigurumi with embroidered black hair, a green-and-gold headband, layered cuffs, shaped boots, and skirt panels.
- Pieces
- 14 crocheted components
- Hook
- 3.00 mm
- Yarn
- DK-weight yarn
- Length
- 1,989 words · 9 min
Read the materials and technical notes first, keep every stitch total visible, and pin all components before sewing.
Project details
- Skill level: Best for crocheters comfortable with amigurumi shaping, colour changes, picked-up stitches, embroidery, and seaming. A patient beginner can work through it one section at a time.
- Terminology: US crochet terms.
- Finished height: About 17.5 cm (approximately 6.9 inches), with size varying according to yarn, hook, and tension.
- Gauge: Not specified.
- Construction: The head, hair cap, arms, legs, and body are shaped as amigurumi pieces; the ears, hair accessories, cuffs, skirt panels, and embroidered hair are added separately.
Materials and tools
- 3.00 mm crochet hook
- DK-weight yarn in black, green, dark green, yellow, beige, and cream; fibre and quantities are not specified
- Black embroidery or cross-stitch thread
- A small amount of yellow yarn for belt embroidery
- Optional matching yarn or felt for an alternate mouth
- Toy stuffing
- 2 x 8.00 mm safety eyes
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Pins
- Two bobby pins or stitch markers for joining the legs
Abbreviations
- 4sc popcorn: a popcorn stitch made with four single crochet stitches
- BLO: back loop only
- ch: chain
- dc: double crochet
- dec: decrease
- FLO: front loop only
- hdc: half double crochet
- inc: increase
- MR: magic ring
- sc: single crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- [ ] x n: repeat the bracketed sequence the stated number of times
Numbers in parentheses give the stated stitch count at the end of a row. Colour instructions apply from the point where the new colour is named. Use pins to test the placement of sewn pieces before committing to the seam.
Toph crochet pattern
Head
Row 1: In beige, MR 6sc (6)
Row 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Row 3: [inc, sc] x 6 (18)
Row 4: [sc, inc, sc] x 6 (24)
Row 5: [inc, sc 3] x 6 (30)
Row 6: [sc 2, inc, sc 2] x 6 (36)
Rows 7–12: sc 36 (36)
Row 13: [sc 2, dec, sc 2] x 6 (30)
Row 14: [dec, sc 3] x 6 (24)
Row 15: [sc, dec, sc] x 6 (18)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm or 7.5 inches long. Insert the safety eyes between Rows 9 and 10 with approximately five stitches between them, then stuff the head firmly. Embroider the mouth with a few strands of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread. Yarn can be used instead for a thicker mouth; felt is another optional way to create a more expressive or detailed shape.
Hair cap
Row 1: In black, MR 6sc (6)
Row 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Row 3: [inc, sc] x 6 (18)
Row 4: [sc, inc, sc] x 6 (24)
Row 5: [inc, sc 3] x 6 (30)
Row 6: [sc 2, inc, sc 2] x 6 (36)
Rows 7–12: sc 36 (36)
Finish off with a tail approximately 20 cm or 7.5 inches long. Fit the cap over the stuffed head and use the tail to secure it in four or five places; it does not need to be sewn through every stitch. Depending on the yarns used for the head and hair, the cap may need more or fewer than 12 rows for the right fit. Adjust only this optional fit detail as needed.
Ears (make 2)
Row 1: In beige, ch 3 (3)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)
Finish off each ear with a tail approximately 12 cm or 5 inches long. Pin the ears in place with a slight natural curve. Align the top of each ear with the middle of the nearest eye, about five stitches from the eye or where the ear meets the edge of the hair cap, then sew with the tails.
Hair insert
Row 1: In black, ch 18 (18)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 18 (18)
Rows 3–4: ch 2, turn, dc 18 (18)
Finish off, leaving enough tail to sew the insert to the head later.
Headband
Row 1: In yellow, ch 18 (18)
Row 2: In green, sc 7, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc 7 (18)
Finish off, leaving enough tail to sew the headband to the head later.
Side puffs (make 2)
Row 1: In cream, ch 2 (2)
Row 2: Working all stitches in the second chain from the hook, sc, dc 3, sl st
Finish off each puff, leaving enough tail to sew it to the headband later.
Assemble and embroider the hair
- Pin the headband so its two ends sit immediately behind the ears. Do not sew it down yet; it must remain movable while the fringe is embroidered beneath it.
Arms (make 2)
Row 1: In beige, MR 6 sc (6)
Row 2: [inc, sc 2] x 2 (8)
Rows 3–4: sc 8 (8)
Row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
Row 6: sc 8 (8)
Rows 7–9: In dark green, sc 8 (8)
Rows 10–12: In beige, sc 8 (8)
Rows 13–15: In green, sc 8 (8)
Do not stuff the arms. Leave a tail approximately 20 cm or 7.5 inches long on each arm and finish off. The popcorn stitch forms the thumb; replacing it with one sc is an optional way to make a straight arm.
Arm detailing: sleeve
Row 1: In green, pick up a row between Rows 13 and 14 (8)
Row 2: sc (8)
Arm detailing: wrist cuff
Row 1: In green, pick up a row between Rows 7 and 8 (8)
Row 2: sc 8 (8)
Arm detailing: top wrist cuff
Row 1: In yellow, pick up a row between Rows 9 and 10 (8)
Complete the same detailing on both arms.
Skirt panels (make 2)
Row 1: In cream, ch 5 (5)
Rows 2–6: ch 1, turn, sc 5 (5)
Finish off each panel with one tail long enough to sew it to the body. Thread the other tail onto a yarn needle, weave it into the panel until hidden, and trim it.
Legs (make 2)
Row 1: In beige, MR 6 sc (6)
Row 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Row 3: [inc, sc] x 6 (18)
Row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
Rows 5–7: sc 18 (18)
Row 8: In dark green, sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12)
Rows 9–10: sc 12 (12)
Rows 11–14: In beige, sc 12 (12)
Rows 15–17: In green, sc 12 (12)
Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook so the two legs can be joined.
Leg detailing: ankle cuff
Row 1: In green, pick up a row between Rows 8 and 9 (12)
Row 2: sc 3, inc 6, sc 3 (18)
Row 3: sc 18 (18)
Leg detailing: ankle band
Row 1: In yellow, pick up a row between Rows 10 and 11 (12)
Leg detailing: pants
Row 1: In green, pick up a row between Rows 15 and 16 (12)
Row 2: sc 12 (12)
Repeat all three details on the other leg.
Joining the legs
Place the legs side by side with both feet pointing forward. Keep the beginning of the row at the back so the colour changes are less visible. Mark the two points where the legs will connect by placing two bobby pins or stitch markers across the corresponding stitches.
Make one sc in the right leg through the stitch marked by the first pin. Work the next sc in the left leg through its corresponding marked stitch. Continue around both legs. At the second marker, move from one leg to the other in the same way. After one row, the legs should form one joined 24-stitch opening for the body.
Body
Rows 1–2: In green, sc 24 (24)
Row 3: [sc 3, dec, sc 3] x 3 (21)
Stuff the legs at this point.
Row 4: In dark green, [dec, sc 5] x 3 (18)
Row 5: FLO sc 18 (18)
Row 6: In cream, [inc, sc 2] x 6 (24)
Row 7: sc 24 (24)
Row 8: [sc 3, dec, sc 3] x 3 (21)
Row 9: [dec, sc 5] x 3 (18)
Row 10: [sc 2, dec, sc 2] x 3 (15)
Row 11: [dec, sc 3] x 3 (12)
Row 12: sc 12 (12)
Row 13: In beige, [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Finish off and stuff the rest of the body. Avoid overstuffing the legs: the bottoms of the feet should still press inward enough for the doll to stand.
Assembly and finishing
- Pin both arms and both skirt panels to the body and check their balance before sewing.
- Attach each arm as a flattened piece. Whipstitch the skirt panels in place, catching every stitch for a neat edge.
- Thread a yarn needle with yellow yarn and embroider dots around the dark-green belt at the waist.
Check that the head faces forward, the arms hang evenly, and both feet point in the same direction. The Toph amigurumi doll is now complete.
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