Suki Crochet Pattern: A Kyoshi Warrior Amigurumi with Felt Makeup

Materials and Stitch Key

Suki is the Kyoshi warrior of the Avatar: The Last Airbender gang: white face paint, a green warrior's outfit with a flared skirt and panels, and long rusty-brown hair under a gold headpiece. The white head is her stage makeup, so the face itself is quick — the character lives in the details: red felt eye makeup, embroidered stripes and dots, and the stacked felt headpiece. Worked in DK yarn she stands about 17.5 cm tall.

Materials

• DK yarn in white, green, dark green, dark grey, rusty brown, yellow and black
• 3.00 mm crochet hook
• 2 safety eyes, 8.00 mm
• Red felt and yellow felt, for the eye makeup and headpiece
• Black yarn or thread for the eyebrows, and red embroidery thread for the mouth
• Toy stuffing
• Yarn needle, scissors and pins
• Optional: a felting needle or fabric glue, for fixing the felt pieces

Tension is not critical for this doll. Choose a hook that gives you a firm fabric with no gaps for the yarn you have, and keep the same tension across every piece so the head and body rounds meet evenly.

Stitch key (US terms)

• MR — magic ring
• ch — chain
• sc — single crochet
• hdc — half double crochet
• inc — increase: 2 single crochet in the same stitch
• dec — invisible decrease: insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch and then the front loop of the following stitch (2 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook
• BLO — back loop only: work into the back loop of the stitch
• FLO — front loop only: work into the front loop of the stitch
• sl st — slip stitch
• popcorn — 4 single crochet popcorn stitch: work 4 single crochet into the same stitch, remove the hook from the working loop, insert it into the first of the 4 stitches, pick up the working loop and pull it through, then chain 1 to close

This pattern uses US terms. Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless a row instruction says to turn.

Suki Crochet Pattern

Head

R1: (in White) MR, 6 sc (6)

R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)

R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)

R4: [ sc, inc, sc ] x 6 (24)

R5: [ inc, sc 3 ] x 6 (30)

R6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ] x 6 (36)

R7-12: sc 36 (36)

R13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ] x 6 (30)

R14: [ dec, sc 3 ] x 6 (24)

R15: [ sc, dec, sc ] x 6 (18)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm long for attaching the head to the body later.

The face

Push the safety eyes in between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them, but do not fit the washers yet — for now they are only marking their position. Stuff the head firmly. Embroider the eyebrows with black yarn or thread. Cut the eye makeup shapes from red felt — one swept shape over each eye — and pin them on to check the shape and position; the hair cap helps judge where the makeup should sit. Fix the felt by needle felting it into the head, or use fabric glue, embroider the shape in yarn, or paint it on with fabric paint instead. When the makeup looks right, fit the washers behind the eyes, and embroider the mouth with red embroidery thread.

PSave Pin

Hair cap

R1: (in Rusty Brown) MR, 6 sc (6)

R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)

R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)

R4: [ sc, inc, sc ] x 6 (24)

R5: [ inc, sc 3 ] x 6 (30)

R6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ] x 6 (36)

R7-12: sc 36 (36)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm long. Use the tail to tack the cap onto the stuffed head: it does not need a stitch in every stitch, only 4 or 5 securing points around the edge to hold it properly. Depending on your yarn and tension, your cap may need one round more or fewer than 12 to fit the head — try it on and adjust as needed.

Ears (make 2)

R1: (in White) ch 3 (3)

R2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12 cm long. Pin the ears in position before sewing: the top of the ear sits level with the middle of the eye and about 5 stitches away from it, where it meets the edge of the hair cap. Give each ear a slight curve as you sew it on, like a real ear.

Hair

The hair is made from about 10 bunches of yarn, 5 strands in each bunch. Each strand should be about twice as long as you want the finished hair — cut long, because you can always trim at the end. To make the bunches quickly, wrap the rusty brown yarn around a piece of cardboard or a box 25 times, cut straight across, then cut the bundle in half: 50 strands of equal length, ready to group into bunches.

Thread a length of brown yarn on a needle and bring it up through the neck to where the parting will be. Lay the centre of the first bunch at the crown of the head, take the needle back down through the hair cap over the bunch, and pull tight to anchor it. Work the next bunches snugly against the previous one, embroidering a hairline down the head until the cap is covered. To help the hair sit flatter, a small triangle of fabric glue at the hairline, in line with the ear, will hold it neatly against the head. Leave the final trim until the very end of assembly.

PSave Pin

PSave Pin

Arms (make 2)

R1: (in Dark Grey) MR, 6 sc (6)

R2: [ inc, sc 2 ] x 2 (8)

R3-4: sc 8 (8)

R5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)

R6-9: sc 8 (8)

R10: (in Green) FLO [ inc ] x 8 (16)

R11: sc 16 (16)

R12: [ dec ] x 8 (8)

R13-15: sc 8 (8)

The arms are small enough to leave unstuffed. Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm long. The popcorn stitch is the thumb; if you find it fiddly, or prefer straight arms, work a single crochet in its place.

Now pick up a row of stitches in green between rows 6 and 7, just above the thumb. With dark green yarn, embroider a stripe down the outside of the arm, from the top of the arm to the bottom of the puffy green sleeve. With yellow yarn, embroider a dot in the middle of the grey arm and another in the middle of the dark green stripe.

PSave Pin

Shoulder pads (make 2)

R1: (in Black) ch 3 (3)

R2: ch 2, turn, hdc 3 (3)

Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to attach the pad to the body later.

Legs (make 2)

R1: (in Dark Grey) MR, 6 sc (6)

R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)

R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)

R4: BLO sc 18 (18)

R5-6: sc 18 (18)

R7: sc 2, [ dec ] x 7, sc 2 (11)

R8-18: sc 11 (11)

R19: inc, sc 10 (12)

Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook, ready to join. For the join, set the legs side by side with both feet pointing forwards and the start of the rounds at the back, so colour changes stay hidden. Mark the joining stitches with bobby pins or stitch markers: one single crochet crosses from the right leg to the left leg at each marker, and after one round the two legs form a single 24-stitch round, ready for the body.

Body

R1-2: (in Dark Grey) sc 24 (24)

R3: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ] x 3 (21)

Stuff the legs at this point, before the decreases begin. Keep the stuffing moderate — you should be able to press the bottom of each foot in slightly, which is what lets the finished doll stand.

R4: [ dec, sc 5 ] x 3 (18)

R5: (in Dark Green) sc 18 (18)

R6: FLO sc 18 (18)

R7: (in Dark Grey) [ inc, sc 2 ] x 6 (24)

R8: sc 24 (24)

R9: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ] x 3 (21)

R10: [ dec, sc 5 ] x 3 (18)

R11: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ] x 3 (15)

R12: [ dec, sc 3 ] x 3 (12)

R13: (in Green) sc 12 (12)

R14: (in White) [ sc, inc ] x 6 (18)

Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.

PSave Pin

Skirt

The skirt is worked downwards from stitches picked up around the body, between rows 3 and 4.

R1: (in Dark Green) pick up 21 stitches between rows 3 and 4 of the body (21)

R2: [ sc 3, inc, sc 3 ] x 3 (24)

R3: sc 24 (24)

R4: [ inc, sc 7 ] x 3 (27)

R5: sc 27 (27)

R6: [ sc 4, inc, sc 4 ] x 3 (30)

R7: sc 30 (30)

R8: [ inc, sc 9 ] x 3 (33)

R9: sc 33 (33)

R10: [ sc 5, inc, sc 5 ] x 3 (36)

R11-20: sc 36 (36)

Work a slip stitch into the last stitch to level the edge, finish off, and weave the tail into the skirt to hide it.

Green panels (make 2)

Leave a long tail at the start of each panel, to use for attaching it later.

R1: (in Green) ch 9 (9)

R2-4: ch 1, turn, sc 9 (9)

Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the panel onto the body.

Grey panels (make 4)

Leave a long tail at the start of each panel, to use for attaching it later.

R1: (in Dark Grey) ch 6 (6)

R2-6: ch 1, turn, sc 6 (6)

Finish off and weave the finishing tail into the piece, keeping the long starting tail. If a panel curls and will not lie flat, press it gently — with a towel or a sheet of baking paper between the iron and the yarn, because some acrylic yarns melt under direct heat.

PSave Pin

Assembly and Finishing

1. Attach the panels. Sew the 2 green panels onto the skirt first, centred at the front and back. Pin each panel in place, then whipstitch it to the body through every stitch for a neat finish. Add the 4 grey panels evenly spaced around the waist in the same way — pin first, then whipstitch.
2. Attach the arms. Flatten each arm and sew it to the body with its tail. Then sew on the shoulder pads, and wrap the pad tails around the arm as you finish, so they look like the straps on Suki's outfit.
3. Embroider the last lines. With black yarn, embroider a line at the neck between the grey and the green. With yellow yarn, embroider the small lines above the waist on her left side.
4. Make the headpiece. Stack and glue the yellow felt: a triangle for the base, 4 small strips, and a rectangle sitting in the centre. Glue it in place on the hairline, and add a small stitch in yellow yarn on either side to make it extra secure. For the dangling pieces at the sides, poke short lengths of yellow yarn out of the head and knot them at the back to hold them; leave the front knots until the head is on.
5. Attach the head. The last rounds of the head and the body both have 18 stitches, so they match evenly. Align the head, pin it, and whipstitch it closed. If you reach the halfway point and the head sits off-centre, unpick the stitches and shift it — it happens to everyone.
6. Trim. Trim the hair to the length you want, then knot the headpiece dangles at the front and trim them to match.

PSave Pin

PSave Pin

Frequently asked questions

How do I fix the red eye makeup without a felting needle?

Glue it with fabric glue, embroider the shape in red yarn or thread, or paint it on with fabric paint. The pattern only needs the swept red shape over each eye; any of the four methods gives the same finished look.

Can I leave out the popcorn stitch thumb?

Yes. Work a plain single crochet in its place on row 5 of the arm and continue as written. The arm stays the same size and shape, just without the little thumb bump.

My hair cap does not fit the head. What went wrong?

Probably nothing — yarn and tension change the fit from maker to maker. Try the cap on the stuffed head and add or remove one plain round at the end until the edge sits where the hairline should be, then tack it in place as written.

This free pattern is an unofficial fan work inspired by Suki from Avatar: The Last Airbender. Avatar: The Last Airbender is a trademark of Nickelodeon. This pattern is not affiliated with or endorsed by Nickelodeon.