Yuri Katsuki Crochet Pattern: A Skating Amigurumi with Embroidered Hair
Make Yuri Katsuki as a small amigurumi in his blue skating costume. This Yuri Katsuki crochet pattern embroiders the swept-back hair over a crocheted cap and works the jacket's centre column straight into the body.
- Pieces
- 19 crocheted pieces
- Hook
- 3.00 mm
- Yarn
- DK cotton
- Length
- 1,891 words · 9 min
Read the materials and technical notes first, keep every stitch total visible, and pin all components before sewing.
Materials and stitch key
Materials
- 3.00 mm crochet hook
- DK cotton yarn in beige, black, dark navy blue, blue, light blue and silver
- 2 safety eyes, 7.5 mm
- Black embroidery thread, for the mouth
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers or bobby pins
Abbreviations (US terms)
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dec = invisible decrease: insert the hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and single crochet them together
- hdc = half double crochet
- htr = half treble crochet: like a double crochet, but wrap the yarn around the hook twice before inserting it into the stitch
- inc = increase: work 2 single crochet into the same stitch
- MR = magic ring
- popcorn = 4 sc popcorn stitch: work 4 single crochet into the same stitch, remove the hook, insert it into the first of the 4 stitches and pull the last loop through
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
Before you start
Yuri's skating costume is crocheted straight into the body: the jacket shades from blue into light blue, with a narrow column of two contrasting stitches running down the centre front. The hair is not a separate wig of strands glued on afterwards; it is embroidered in black yarn over a crocheted hair cap, swept back from the forehead. This is the most advanced of the small dolls on this site: the embroidered hair and the centre column both reward patience, and the Victor Nikiforov pattern makes the matching partner doll.
Checkpoint: insert the safety eyes between head rounds 9 and 10, with about 5 stitches between them.
Yuri Katsuki crochet pattern
Head (in beige)
R1: MR 6 (6)
R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)
R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)
R4: sc, [ inc, sc 2 ] x 5, inc, sc (24)
R5: [ inc, sc 3 ] x 6 (30)
R6: sc 2, [ inc, sc 4 ] x 5, inc, sc 2 (36)
R7-12: sc 36 (36)
R13: sc 2, [ dec, sc 4 ] x 5, dec, sc 2 (30)
R14: [ dec, sc 3 ] x 6 (24)
R15: sc, [ dec, sc 2 ] x 5, dec, sc (18)
Finish off, leaving a tail about 20 cm long. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, with about 5 stitches between them, stuff the head firmly, and embroider the mouth with a few strands of black embroidery thread. Yarn makes a thicker mouth; felt gives a finer one.
Hair cap (in black)
R1: MR 6 (6)
R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)
R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)
R4: sc, [ inc, sc 2 ] x 5, inc, sc (24)
R5: [ inc, sc 3 ] x 6 (30)
R6: sc 2, [ inc, sc 4 ] x 5, inc, sc 2 (36)
R7-12: sc 36 (36)
Finish off, leaving a tail about 20 cm long, and use it to tack the cap onto the stuffed head in 4 or 5 places; it does not need sewing through every stitch. Depending on your yarn and tension, the cap may need one round more or fewer than 12 to sit at the right hairline; adjust as needed.
Ears (make 2, in beige)
R1: ch 3 (3)
R2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)
Finish off, leaving a tail for attaching. Pin the ears on with a slight curve, like real ears: the top of the ear level with the middle of the eye, about 5 stitches from the eye, where it meets the edge of the hair cap.
Attaching the hair
The hair is embroidered on with the same black yarn as the cap, in long strands laid over the cap. Start with a couple of strands at the top of the head, then work the shorter strands at the lower back of the head, filling the gaps. Move to the front and work from the centre outwards: every strand sweeps back from the forehead towards the back of the head. Finish with the two sections of the fringe at the front and the tiny sideburns. Keep a reference picture of Yuri open while you work; the direction of the strands matters more than their exact count.
Left arm (in beige, dark navy blue and light blue)
R1: (in beige) MR 6 (6)
R2: [ inc, sc 2 ] x 2 (8)
R3: sc 8 (8)
R4: (in dark navy blue) sc 8 (8)
R5: sc 3, popcorn, sc 4 (8)
R6-8: sc 8 (8)
R9-15: (in light blue) sc 8 (8)
The popcorn stitch is the thumb. For a straight arm, replace it with a sc. The arms are too small to need stuffing. Finish off, leaving a tail about 20 cm long.
Right arm (in beige, dark navy blue and blue)
R1: (in beige) MR 6 (6)
R2: [ inc, sc 2 ] x 2 (8)
R3: sc 8 (8)
R4: (in dark navy blue) sc 8 (8)
R5: sc 3, popcorn, sc 4 (8)
R6-8: sc 8 (8)
R9-15: (in blue) sc 8 (8)
Finish off, leaving a tail about 20 cm long. The two arms are a pair: light blue on the left, blue on the right.
Arm band (for both arms, in dark navy blue)
R1: pick up 8 stitches around the arm between rounds 8 and 9, where the navy changes to blue or light blue (8)
R2: sc 8 (8)
Finish off and weave in the end.
Legs (make 2, in black)
R1: MR 6 (6)
R2: [ inc ] x 6 (12)
R3: [ inc, sc ] x 6 (18)
R4: BLO sc 18 (18)
R5-7: sc 18 (18)
R8: sc 3, dec x 6, sc 3 (12)
R9-19: sc 12 (12)
Working round 4 in the back loop only makes the base of the foot flat, so the doll can stand. Finish off the first leg completely. Leave the second leg on the hook; it becomes the right leg, so the body's colour change stays at the back.
Joining the legs and body
Position the two legs with both feet pointing forwards. Mark the joining stitch on each leg with a bobby pin. Work 4 more stitches on the right leg, make 1 sc in the marked stitch, then jump to the marked stitch on the left leg and continue around it; at the far pin, jump back to the right leg. This first joined round has 24 stitches and is round 1 of the body.
R1-3: (in black) sc 24 (24)
R4-7: (in blue) sc 24, with the 2 centre-front stitches in black (24)
Stuff the body at this point, and stuff the legs before the decreases if you have not already.
R8: (in light blue) sc 3, dec, [ sc 6, dec ] x 2, sc 3, with the 2 centre-front stitches in beige (21)
R9: [ dec, sc 5 ] x 3, keeping the 2 centre-front stitches in beige (18)
R10: sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ] x 2, sc 2, keeping the 2 centre-front stitches in beige (15)
R11: [ dec, sc 3 ] x 3, keeping the 2 centre-front stitches in beige (12)
R12: (in black) sc 12 (12)
R13: (in beige) [ sc, inc ] x 6 (18)
Finish off and stuff the rest of the body. Mark the 2 centre-front stitches with bobby pins so the column stays centred. On the blue rounds the column is black; from round 8 up it is beige, forming the open front of the jacket. If a decrease would land on the column, move it one stitch earlier or later so the 2 column stitches always stay in the middle. When the body is finished, embroider a line of black yarn down the chest, so the black undershirt shows beneath the jacket.
Shoulder pads (make 2, in silver)
R1: ch 3 (3)
R2: ch 2, turn, hdc 3 (3)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the arm later.
Coat tails (make 2, in blue)
R1: ch 4 (4)
R2: ch 1, turn, sc, hdc, dc, htr (4)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the back of the body.
Checkpoint: 19 crocheted pieces in total: head, hair cap, 2 ears, 2 arms, 2 arm bands, 2 legs, body, 2 shoulder pads, 2 coat tails and 4 collar chains (made during assembly).
Assembly and finishing
Assembly steps
- Attach the arms: pin them in place first, then sew each one on flattened, using its tail. The light-blue arm is the left arm; the blue arm is the right.
- Make the collar chains in dark navy blue: 2 long chains of ch 4 and 2 short chains of ch 2. The long chains run along the edge of the jacket, from the top of the trousers up to where the body changes to light blue; the short chains angle from the top of the long ones out towards the shoulders.
- Attach the coat tails to the back of the body.
- Attach a silver shoulder pad to the top of each arm, then loosely embroider the two silver loops that hang around the left shoulder, knotting them tightly on the inside so they cannot pull out.
- Attach the head: the last round of the head and the last round of the body both have 18 stitches, so they match evenly. Pin the front stitches in line with coloured pins, count out to the back, and whipstitch the head on.
Final check: hair swept back with the fringe and sideburns in place, the two-stitch column centred down the chest, silver pads and loops on the shoulders, coat tails at the back, and the doll standing flat on its feet.
Questions crocheters ask about this pattern
Is Yuri Katsuki suitable for beginners?
He is the most ambitious of these small dolls: the individual pieces use only basic stitches, but the embroidered hair and the centre column on the body both need patience. A confident beginner who has made a plain doll before can manage him.
How do I keep the centre column straight?
Mark the two centre-front stitches with bobby pins or stitch markers and check them at the end of every round. If a decrease would land on the column, work it one stitch earlier or later; the column must always stay in the middle.
Can I make the hair differently?
Yes. The cap alone gives a neat, simple finish, and strands of yarn sewn only along the front hairline are a quicker alternative to full embroidery. Felt cut into a swept fringe also works for the front sections.
Yuri Katsuki is a character from the anime Yuri on Ice. This is an unofficial fan-made pattern, not affiliated with or endorsed by MAPPA or the Yuri on Ice production committee.
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